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I’ve had a few friends who have sold their businesses and it’s almost as if their life is over, despite the money they have acquired. The setting was Madison Square Garden, a game between the Knicks and the Toronto Raptors.
“Some people are motivated by money, some by power.
After a show, for instance, there is always the protocol of going backstage to schmooze the designers. In one sense we were appealing to Wall Street, trying to be a real business, where you’d say, ‘It’s a business that’s not emotional—it’s all marketing, it’s all figured out.
It’s almost a tribal rite practiced by most of the big shots in the business. Once, after a men’s-wear show in Milan in 2000, he just turned his back on me and marched off. You don’t have to worry.’ But let me tell you, it’s very emotional, it’s very personal. By the time [a show] was over I just wanted to go home and be by myself.”This is a reason that Klein’s name has transcended the field of fashion: for all its commercial savvy, his work has, indeed, been highly personal, a product not just of its times but more specifically of the way the times influenced the designer. What went on in the mid- to late 70s—when he became an international celebrity hanging out at Studio 54, a designer who reinforced America’s arrival as a fashion force and set the retail world on fire with Calvin Klein jeans (and his controversial commercials featuring a sexed-up teenage Brooke Shields)—is the most extreme example of this interplay, but it has really been true of his entire career.
When Calvin Klein sold his business, five years ago, he stepped off a four-decade juggernaut that harnessed obsessive perfectionism to a gut understanding of what the American body wanted. How wrong I was.” Klein’s daughter, Marci, a TV producer, couldn’t imagine her father without his label. Most people sitting courtside don’t get up and breeze over to say hi to one of the players, as Klein did with the Knicks’ Latrell Sprewell while the player was trying to inbound the ball at midcourt. off-balance” Klein grabbed Sprewell’s arm and started to chat him up, until a friend and two security men escorted Klein back to his seat.
His vision moved fluidly from the sensuality of the Studio 54 years to the serene classicism that followed his marriage to Kelly Rector, to an edgy 90s aesthetic with Kate Moss as muse. “I didn’t know that was him,” Sprewell said after the game. I was like, Is security going to come over here at some point or what?
He was always the first one to get to our appointments, always in good humor, and dressed like Calvin Klein—impeccably, but never in a show-offy way.